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CHAPTER 43
A rapid march - A cloud of dust Wild horsemen - "High Jinks" - Horseracing and rifle-shooting - The game of hand - The fishing season - Mode of fishing - Table lands - Salmon fishers - The captain's visit to an Indian lodge - The Indian girl - The pocket mirror - Supper - Troubles of an evil conscience.
"UP and away!" is the first thought at daylight of the Indian
trader, when a rival is at hand and distance is to be gained.
Early in the morning, Captain Bonneville ordered the half dried
meat to be packed upon the horses, and leaving Wyeth and his
party to hunt the scattered buffalo, pushed off rapidly to the
east, to regain the plain of the Portneuf. His march was rugged
and dangerous; through volcanic hills, broken into cliffs and
precipices; and seamed with tremendous chasms, where the rocks
rose like walls.
On the second day, however, he encamped once more in the plain,
and as it was still early some of the men strolled out to the
neighboring hills. In casting their eyes round the country, they
perceived a great cloud of dust rising in the south, and
evidently approaching. Hastening back to the camp, they gave the
alarm. Preparations were instantly made to receive an enemy;
while some of the men, throwing themselves upon the "running
horses" kept for hunting, galloped off to reconnoitre. In a
little while, they made signals from a distance that all was
friendly. By this time the cloud of dust had swept on as if
hurried along by a blast, and a band of wild horsemen came
dashing at full leap into the camp, yelling and whooping like so
many maniacs. Their dresses, their accoutrements, their mode of
riding, and their uncouth clamor, made them seem a party of
savages arrayed for war; but they proved to be principally
half-breeds, and white men grown savage in the wilderness, who
were employed as trappers and hunters in the service of the
Hudson's Bay Company.
Here was again "high jinks" in the camp. Captain Bonneville's men
hailed these wild scamperers as congenial spirits, or rather as
the very game birds of their class. They entertained them with
the hospitality of mountaineers, feasting them at every fire. At
first, there were mutual details of adventures and exploits, and
broad joking mingled with peals of laughter. Then came on
boasting of the comparative merits of horses and rifles, which
soon engrossed every tongue. This naturally led to racing, and
shooting at a mark; one trial of speed and skill succeeded
another, shouts and acclamations rose from the victorious
parties, fierce altercations succeeded, and a general melee was
about to take place, when suddenly the attention of the
quarrellers was arrested by a strange kind of Indian chant or
chorus, that seemed to operate upon them as a charm. Their fury
was at an end; a tacit reconciliation succeeded and the ideas of
the whole mongrel crowd whites, half-breeds and squaws were
turned in a new direction. They all formed into groups and taking
their places at the several fires, prepared for one of the most
exciting amusements of the Nez Perces and the other tribes of the
Far West.
The choral chant, in fact, which had thus acted as a charm, was a
kind of wild accompaniment to the favorite Indian game of "Hand."
This is played by two parties drawn out in opposite platoons
before a blazing fire. It is in some respects like the old game
of passing the ring or the button, and detecting the hand which
holds it. In the present game, the object hidden, or the cache as
it is called by the trappers, is a small splint of wood, or other
diminutive article that may be concealed in the closed hand. This
is passed backward and forward among the party "in hand," while
the party "out of hand" guess where it is concealed. To heighten
the excitement and confuse the guessers, a number of dry poles
are laid before each platoon, upon which the members of the party
"in hand" beat furiously with short staves, keeping time to the
choral chant already mentioned, which waxes fast and furious as
the game proceeds. As large bets are staked upon the game, the
excitement is prodigious. Each party in turn bursts out in full
chorus, beating, and yelling, and working themselves up into such
a heat that the perspiration rolls down their naked shoulders,
even in the cold of a winter night. The bets are doubled and
trebled as the game advances, the mental excitement increases
almost to madness, and all the worldly effects of the gamblers
are often hazarded upon the position of a straw.
These gambling games were kept up throughout the night; every
fire glared upon a group that looked like a crew of maniacs at
their frantic orgies, and the scene would have been kept up
throughout the succeeding day, had not Captain Bonneville
interposed his authority, and, at the usual hour, issued his
marching orders.
Proceeding down the course of Snake River, the hunters regularly
returned to camp in the evening laden with wild geese, which were
yet scarcely able to fly, and were easily caught in great
numbers. It was now the season of the annual fish-feast, with
which the Indians in these parts celebrate the first appearance
of the salmon in this river. These fish are taken in great
numbers at the numerous falls of about four feet pitch. The
Indians flank the shallow water just below, and spear them as
they attempt to pass. In wide parts of the river, also, they
place a sort of chevaux-de-frize, or fence, of poles interwoven
with withes, and forming an angle in the middle of the current,
where a small opening is left for the salmon to pass. Around this
opening the Indians station themselves on small rafts, and ply
their spears with great success.
The table lands so common in this region have a sandy soil,
inconsiderable in depth, and covered with sage, or more properly
speaking, wormwood. Below this is a level stratum of rock, riven
occasionally by frightful chasms. The whole plain rises as it
approaches the river, and terminates with high and broken cliffs,
difficult to pass, and in many places so precipitous that it is
impossible, for days together, to get down to the water's edge,
to give drink to the horses. This obliges the traveller
occasionally to abandon the vicinity of the river, and make a
wide sweep into the interior.
It was now far in the month of July, and the party suffered
extremely from sultry weather and dusty travelling. The flies and
gnats, too, were extremely troublesome to the horses; especially
when keeping along the edge of the river where it runs between
low sand-banks. Whenever the travellers encamped in the
afternoon, the horses retired to the gravelly shores and remained
there, without attempting to feed until the cool of the evening.
As to the travellers, they plunged into the clear and cool
current, to wash away the dust of the road and refresh themselves
after the heat of the day. The nights were always cool and
pleasant.
At one place where they encamped for some time, the river was
nearly five hundred yards wide, and studded with grassy islands,
adorned with groves of willow and cotton-wood. Here the Indians
were assembled in great numbers, and had barricaded the channels
between the islands, to enable them to spear the salmon with
greater facility. They were a timid race, and seemed unaccustomed
to the sight of white men. Entering one of the huts, Captain
Bonneville found the inhabitants just proceeding to cook a fine
salmon. It is put into a pot filled with cold water, and hung
over the fire. The moment the water begins to boil, the fish is
considered cooked.
Taking his seat unceremoniously, and lighting his pipe, the
captain awaited the cooking of the fish, intending to invite
himself to the repast. The owner of the hut seemed to take his
intrusion in good part. While conversing with him the captain
felt something move behind him, and turning round and removing a
few skins and old buffalo robes, discovered a young girl, about
fourteen years of age, crouched beneath, who directed her large
black eyes full in his face, and continued to gaze in mute
surprise and terror. The captain endeavored to dispel her fears,
and drawing a bright ribbon from his pocket, attempted repeatedly
to tie it round her neck. She jerked back at each attempt,
uttering a sound very much like a snarl; nor could all the
blandishments of the captain, albeit a pleasant, good-looking,
and somewhat gallant man, succeed in conquering the shyness of
the savage little beauty. His attentions were now turned toward
the parents, whom he presented with an awl and a little tobacco,
and having thus secured their good-will, continued to smoke his
pipe, and watch the salmon. While thus seated near the threshold,
an urchin of the family approached the door, but catching a sight
of the strange guest, ran off screaming with terror and ensconced
himself behind the long straw at the back of the hut.
Desirous to dispel entirely this timidity, and to open a trade
with the simple inhabitants of the hut, who, he did not doubt,
had furs somewhere concealed, the captain now drew forth that
grand lure in the eyes of a savage, a pocket mirror. The sight of
it was irresistible. After examining it for a long time with
wonder and admiration, they produced a musk-rat skin, and offered
it in exchange. The captain shook his head; but purchased the
skin for a couple of buttons - superfluous trinkets! as the
worthy lord of the hovel had neither coat nor breeches on which
to place them.
The mirror still continued the great object of desire,
particularly in the eyes of the old housewife, who produced a pot
of parched flour and a string of biscuit roots. These procured
her some trifle in return; but could not command the purchase of
the mirror. The salmon being now completely cooked, they all
joined heartily in supper. A bounteous portion was deposited
before the captain by the old woman, upon some fresh grass, which
served instead of a platter; and never had he tasted a salmon
boiled so completely to his fancy.
Supper being over, the captain lighted his pipe and passed it to
his host, who, inhaling the smoke, puffed it through his nostrils
so assiduously, that in a little while his head manifested signs
of confusion and dizziness. Being satisfied, by this time, of
the kindly and companionable qualities of the captain, he became
easy and communicative; and at length hinted something about
exchanging beaver skins for horses. The captain at once offered
to dispose of his steed, which stood fastened at the door. The
bargain was soon concluded, whereupon the Indian, removing a pile
of bushes under which his valuables were concealed, drew forth
the number of skins agreed upon as the price.
Shortly afterward, some of the captain's people coming up, he
ordered another horse to be saddled, and, mounting it, took his
departure from the hut, after distributing a few trifling
presents among its simple inhabitants. During all the time of his
visit, the little Indian girl had kept her large black eyes fixed
upon him, almost without winking, watching every movement with
awe and wonder; and as he rode off, remained gazing after him,
motionless as a statue. Her father, however, delighted with his
new acquaintance, mounted his newly purchased horse, and followed
in the train of the captain, to whom he continued to be a
faithful and useful adherent during his sojourn in the
neighborhood.
The cowardly effects of an evil conscience were evidenced in the
conduct of one of the captain's men, who had been in the
California expedition. During all their intercourse with the
harmless people of this place, he had manifested uneasiness and
anxiety. While his companions mingled freely and joyously with
the natives, he went about with a restless, suspicious look;
scrutinizing every painted form and face and starting often at
the sudden approach of some meek and inoffensive savage, who
regarded him with reverence as a superior being. Yet this was
ordinarily a bold fellow, who never flinched from danger, nor
turned pale at the prospect of a battle. At length he requested
permission of Captain Bonneville to keep out of the way of these
people entirely. Their striking resemblance, he said, to the
people of Ogden's River, made him continually fear that some
among them might have seen him in that expedition; and might seek
an opportunity of revenge. Ever after this, while they remained
in this neighborhood, he would skulk out of the way and keep
aloof when any of the native inhabitants approached. "Such,"
observed Captain Bonneville, "is the effect of self-reproach,
even upon the roving trapper in the wilderness, who has little
else to fear than the stings of his own guilty conscience."
Content of CHAPTER 43 [Washington Irving's book: The Adventures of Captain Bonneville]
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