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CHAPTER 29
Winter camp at the Portneuf Fine springs - The Bannack Indians - Their honesty - Captain Bonneville prepares for an expedition - Christmas - The American Falls - Wild scenery Fishing Falls - Snake Indians - Scenery on the Bruneau - View of volcanic
country from a mountain Powder River - Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers - Their character, habits, habitations, dogs Vanity at its last shift
IN ESTABLISHING his winter camp near the Portnenf, Captain
Bonneville had drawn off to some little distance from his Bannack
friends, to avoid all annoyance from their intimacy or
intrusions. In so doing, however, he had been obliged to take up
his quarters on the extreme edge of the flat land, where he was
encompassed with ice and snow, and had nothing better for his
horses to subsist on than wormwood. The Bannacks, on the
contrary, were encamped among fine springs of water, where there
was grass in abundance. Some of these springs gush out of the
earth in sufficient quantity to turn a mill; and furnish
beautiful streams, clear as crystal, and full of trout of a large
size, which may be seen darting about the transparent water.
Winter now set in regularly. The snow had fallen frequently, and
in large quantities, and covered the ground to a depth of a foot;
and the continued coldness of the weather prevented any thaw.
By degrees, a distrust which at first subsisted between the
Indians and the trappers, subsided, and gave way to mutual
confidence and good will. A few presents convinced the chiefs
that the white men were their friends; nor were the white men
wanting in proofs of the honesty and good faith of their savage
neighbors. Occasionally, the deep snow and the want of fodder
obliged them to turn their weakest horses out to roam in quest of
sustenance. If they at any time strayed to the camp of the
Bannacks, they were immediately brought back. It must be
confessed, however, that if the stray horse happened, by any
chance, to be in vigorous plight and good condition, though he
was equally sure to be returned by the honest Bannacks, yet it
was always after the lapse of several days, and in a very gaunt
and jaded state; and always with the remark that they had found
him a long way off. The uncharitable were apt to surmise that he
had, in the interim, been well used up in a buffalo hunt; but
those accustomed to Indian morality in the matter of horseflesh,
considered it a singular evidence of honesty that he should be
brought back at all.
Being convinced, therefore, from these, and other circumstances,
that his people were encamped in the neighborhood of a tribe as
honest as they were valiant, and satisfied that they would pass
their winter unmolested, Captain Bonneville prepared for a
reconnoitring expedition of great extent and peril. This was, to
penetrate to the Hudson's Bay establishments on the banks of the
Columbia, and to make himself acquainted with the country and the
Indian tribes; it being one part of his scheme to establish a
trading post somewhere on the lower part of the river, so as to
participate in the trade lost to the United States by the capture
of Astoria. This expedition would, of course, take him through
the Snake River country, and across the Blue Mountains, the
scenes of so much hardship and disaster to Hunt and Crooks, and
their Astorian bands, who first explored it, and he would have to
pass through it in the same frightful season, the depth of
winter.
The idea of risk and hardship, however, only served to stimulate
the adventurous spirit of the captain. He chose three companions
for his journey, put up a small stock of necessaries in the most
portable form, and selected five horses and mules for themselves
and their baggage. He proposed to rejoin his band in the early
part of March, at the winter encampment near the Portneuf. All
these arrangements being completed, he mounted his horse on
Christmas morning, and set off with his three comrades. They
halted a little beyond the Bannack camp, and made their Christmas
dinner, which, if not a very merry, was a very hearty one, after
which they resumed their journey.
They were obliged to travel slowly, to spare their horses; for
the snow had increased in depth to eighteen inches; and though
somewhat packed and frozen, was not sufficiently so to yield firm
footing. Their route lay to the west, down along the left side of
Snake River; and they were several days in reaching the first, or
American Falls. The banks of the river, for a considerable
distance, both above and below the falls, have a volcanic
character: masses of basaltic rock are piled one upon another;
the water makes its way through their broken chasms, boiling
through narrow channels, or pitching in beautiful cascades over
ridges of basaltic columns.
Beyond these falls, they came to a picturesque, but
inconsiderable stream, called the Cassie. It runs through a level
valley, about four miles wide, where the soil is good; but the
prevalent coldness and dryness of the climate is unfavorable to
vegetation. Near to this stream there is a small mountain of mica
slate, including garnets. Granite, in small blocks, is likewise
seen in this neighborhood, and white sandstone. From this river,
the travellers had a prospect of the snowy heights of the Salmon
River Mountains to the north; the nearest, at least fifty miles
distant.
In pursuing his course westward, Captain Bonneville generally
kept several miles from Snake River, crossing the heads of its
tributary streams; though he often found the open country so
encumbered by volcanic rocks, as to render travelling extremely
difficult. Whenever he approached Snake River, he found it
running through a broad chasm, with steep, perpendicular sides of
basaltic rock. After several days' travel across a level plain,
he came to a part of the river which filled him with astonishment
and admiration. As far as the eye could reach, the river was
walled in by perpendicular cliffs two hundred and fifty feet
high, beetling like dark and gloomy battlements, while blocks and
fragments lay in masses at their feet, in the midst of the
boiling and whirling current. Just above, the whole stream
pitched in one cascade above forty feet in height, with a
thundering sound, casting up a volume of spray that hung in the
air like a silver mist. These are called by some the Fishing
Falls, as the salmon are taken here in immense quantities. They
cannot get by these falls.
After encamping at this place all night, Captain Bonneville, at
sunrise, descended with his party through a narrow ravine, or
rather crevice, in the vast wall of basaltic rock which bordered
the river; this being the only mode, for many miles, of getting
to the margin of the stream.
The snow lay in a thin crust along the banks of the river, so
that their travelling was much more easy than it had been
hitherto. There were foot tracks, also, made by the natives,
which greatly facilitated their progress. Occasionally, they met
the inhabitants of this wild region; a timid race, and but
scantily provided with the necessaries of life. Their dress
consisted of a mantle about four feet square, formed of strips of
rabbit skins sewed together; this they hung over their shoulders,
in the ordinary Indian mode of wearing the blanket. Their weapons
were bows and arrows; the latter tipped with obsidian, which
abounds in the neighborhood. Their huts were shaped like
haystacks, and constructed of branches of willow covered with
long grass, so as to be warm and comfortable. Occasionally, they
were surrounded by small inclosures of wormwood, about three feet
high, which gave them a cottage-like appearance. Three or four of
these tenements were occasionally grouped together in some wild
and striking situation, and had a picturesque effect. Sometimes
they were in sufficient number to form a small hamlet. From these
people, Captain Bonneville's party frequently purchased salmon,
dried in an admirable manner, as were likewise the roes. This
seemed to be their prime article of food; but they were extremely
anxious to get buffalo meat in exchange.
The high walls and rocks, within which the travellers had been so
long inclosed, now occasionally presented openings, through which
they were enabled to ascend to the plain, and to cut off
considerable bends of the river.
Throughout the whole extent of this vast and singular chasm, the
scenery of the river is said to be of the most wild and romantic
character. The rocks present every variety of masses and
grouping. Numerous small streams come rushing and boiling through
narrow clefts and ravines: one of a considerable size issued from
the face of a precipice, within twenty-five feet of its summit;
and after running in nearly a horizontal line for about one
hundred feet, fell, by numerous small cascades, to the rocky bank
of the river.
In its career through this vast and singular defile, Snake River
is upward of three hundred yards wide, and as clear as spring
water. Sometimes it steals along with a tranquil and noiseless
course; at other times, for miles and miles, it dashes on in a
thousand rapids, wild and beautiful to the eye, and lulling the
ear with the soft tumult of plashing waters.
Many of the tributary streams of Snake River, rival it in the
wildness and picturesqueness of their scenery. That called the
Bruneau; is particularly cited. It runs through a tremendous
chasm, rather than a valley, extending upwards of a hundred and
fifty miles. You come upon it on a sudden, in traversing a level
plain. It seems as if you could throw a stone across from cliff
to cliff; yet, the valley is near two thousand feet deep: so that
the river looks like an inconsiderable stream. Basaltic rocks
rise perpendicularly, so that it is impossible to get from the
plain to the water, or from the river margin to the plain. The
current is bright and limpid. Hot springs are found on the
borders of this river. One bursts out of the cliffs forty feet
above the river, in a stream sufficient to turn a mill, and sends
up a cloud of vapor.
We find a characteristic picture of this volcanic region of
mountains and streams, furnished by the journal of Mr. Wyeth,
which lies before us; who ascended a peak in the neighborhood we
are describing. From this summit, the country, he says, appears
an indescribable chaos; the tops of the hills exhibit the same
strata as far as the eye can reach; and appear to have once
formed the level of the country; and the valleys to be formed by
the sinking of the earth, rather than the rising of the hills.
Through the deep cracks and chasms thus formed, the rivers and
brooks make their way, which renders it difficult to follow them.
All these basaltic channels are called cut rocks by the trappers.
Many of the mountain streams disappear in the plains; either
absorbed by their thirsty soil, and by the porous surface of the
lava, or swallowed up in gulfs and chasms.
On the 12th of January (1834), Captain Bonneville reached Powder
River; much the largest stream that he had seen since leaving the
Portneuf. He struck it about three miles above its entrance into
Snake River. Here he found himself above the lower narrows and
defiles of the latter river, and in an open and level country.
The natives now made their appearance in considerable numbers,
and evinced the most insatiable curiosity respecting the white
men; sitting in groups for hours together, exposed to the
bleakest winds, merely for the pleasure of gazing upon the
strangers, and watching every movement. These are of that branch
of the great Snake tribe called Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers, from
their subsisting, in a great measure, on the roots of the earth;
though they likewise take fish in great quantities, and hunt, in
a small way. They are, in general, very poor; destitute of most
of the comforts of life, and extremely indolent: but a mild,
inoffensive race. They differ, in many respects, from the other
branch of the Snake tribe, the Shoshonies; who possess horses,
are more roving and adventurous, and hunt the buffalo.
On the following day, as Captain Bonneville approached the mouth
of Powder River, he discovered at least a hundred families of
these Diggers, as they are familiarly called, assembled in one
place. The women and children kept at a distance, perched among
the rocks and cliffs; their eager curiosity being somewhat dashed
with fear. From their elevated posts, they scrutinized the
strangers with the most intense earnestness; regarding them with
almost as much awe as if they had been beings of a supernatural
order.
The men, however, were by no means so shy and reserved; but
importuned Captain Bonneville and his companions excessively by
their curiosity. Nothing escaped their notice; and any thing they
could lay their hands on underwent the most minute examination.
To get rid of such inquisitive neighbors, the travellers kept on
for a considerable distance, before they encamped for the night.
The country, hereabout, was generally level and sandy; producing
very little grass, but a considerable quantity of sage or
wormwood. The plains were diversified by isolated hills, all cut
off, as it were, about the same height, so as to have tabular
summits. In this they resembled the isolated hills of the great
prairies, east of the Rocky Mountains; especially those found on
the plains of the Arkansas.
The high precipices which had hitherto walled in the channel of
Snake River had now disappeared; and the banks were of the
ordinary height. It should be observed, that the great valleys or
plains, through which the Snake River wound its course, were
generally of great breadth, extending on each side from thirty to
forty miles; where the view was bounded by unbroken ridges of
mountains.
The travellers found but little snow in the neighborhood of
Powder River, though the weather continued intensely cold. They
learned a lesson, however, from their forlorn friends, the Root
Diggers, which they subsequently found of great service in their
wintry wanderings. They frequently observed them to be furnished
with long ropes, twisted from the bark of the wormwood. This they
used as a slow match, carrying it always lighted. Whenever they
wished to warm themselves, they would gather together a little
dry wormwood, apply the match, and in an instant produce a
cheering blaze.
Captain Bonneville gives a cheerless account of a village of
these Diggers, which he saw in crossing the plain below Powder
River. "They live," says he, "without any further protection from
the inclemency of the season, than a sort of break-weather, about
three feet high, composed of sage (or wormwood), and erected
around them in the shape of a half moon." Whenever he met with
them, however, they had always a large suite of half-starved
dogs: for these animals, in savage as well as in civilized life,
seem to be the concomitants of beggary.
These dogs, it must be allowed, were of more use than the beggary
curs of cities. The Indian children used them in hunting the
small game of the neighborhood, such as rabbits and prairie dogs;
in which mongrel kind of chase they acquitted themselves with
some credit.
Sometimes the Diggers aspire to nobler game, and succeed in
entrapping the antelope, the fleetest animal of the prairies. The
process by which this is effected is somewhat singular. When the
snow has disappeared, says Captain Bonneville, and the ground
become soft, the women go into the thickest fields of wormwood,
and pulling it up in great quantities, construct with it a hedge,
about three feet high, inclosing about a hundred acres. A single
opening is left for the admission of the game. This done, the
women conceal themselves behind the wormwood, and wait patiently
for the coming of the antelopes; which sometimes enter this
spacious trap in considerable numbers. As soon as they are in,
the women give the signal, and the men hasten to play their part.
But one of them enters the pen at a time; and, after chasing the
terrified animals round the inclosure, is relieved by one of his
companions. In this way the hunters take their turns, relieving
each other, and keeping up a continued pursuit by relays, without
fatigue to themselves. The poor antelopes, in the end, are so
wearied down, that the whole party of men enter and dispatch them
with clubs; not one escaping that has entered the inclosure. The
most curious circumstance in this chase is, that an animal so
fleet and agile as the antelope, and straining for its life,
should range round and round this fated inclosure, without
attempting to overleap the low barrier which surrounds it. Such,
however, is said to be the fact; and such their only mode of
hunting the antelope.
Notwithstanding the absence of all comfort and convenience in
their habitations, and the general squalidness of their
appearance, the Shoshokoes do not appear to be destitute of
ingenuity. They manufacture good ropes, and even a tolerably fine
thread, from a sort of weed found in their neighborhood; and
construct bowls and jugs out of a kind of basket-work formed from
small strips of wood plaited: these, by the aid of a little wax,
they render perfectly water tight. Beside the roots on which they
mainly depend for subsistence, they collect great quantities of
seed, of various kinds, beaten with one hand out of the tops of
the plants into wooden bowls held for that purpose. The seed thus
collected is winnowed and parched, and ground between two stones
into a kind of meal or flour; which, when mixed with water, forms
a very palatable paste or gruel.
Some of these people, more provident and industrious than the
rest, lay up a stock of dried salmon, and other fish, for winter:
with these, they were ready to traffic with the travellers for
any objects of utility in Indian life; giving a large quantity in
exchange for an awl, a knife, or a fish-hook. Others were in the
most abject state of want and starvation; and would even gather
up the fish-bones which the travellers threw away after a repast,
warm them over again at the fire, and pick them with the greatest
avidity.
The farther Captain Bonneville advanced into the country of these
Root Diggers, the more evidence he perceived of their rude and
forlorn condition. "They were destitute," says he, "of the
necessary covering to protect them from the weather; and seemed
to be in the most unsophisticated ignorance of any other
propriety or advantage in the use of clothing. One old dame had
absolutely nothing on her person but a thread round her neck,
from which was pendant a solitary bead."
What stage of human destitution, however, is too destitute for
vanity! Though these naked and forlorn-looking beings had neither
toilet to arrange, nor beauty to contemplate, their greatest
passion was for a mirror. It was a "great medicine," in their
eyes. The sight of one was sufficient, at any time, to throw them
into a paroxysm of eagerness and delight; and they were ready to
give anything they had for the smallest fragment in which they
might behold their squalid features. With this simple instance of
vanity, in its primitive but vigorous state, we shall close our
remarks on the Root Diggers.
Content of CHAPTER 29 [Washington Irving's book: The Adventures of Captain Bonneville]
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